Mae Chaem is one of those “on-the-way-to” towns. The traveller is “on his way” to Mae Hong Son. Or Pai. Or Doi Inthanon. Or the Hot-Mae Sariang-Ob Luang Gorge triangle.

It’s easy to understand. On first encounter, Mae Chaem appears to be a town in the throes of becoming … something. For the moment, however, it is happy being what it is: a farming community in a lush valley. There are no sidewalks, no traffic lights, and the few streetlights are fluorescent tubes hanging from an electric pole. But the visitor who pauses for a bit discovers that there’s a lot more going on than is evident at first glance.

	The Essence of Mae Chaem Its primary attraction is its setting. Endless tiered fields of rice rise up to the slopes of the green mountains in which the town nestles. The valley is sliced by the Mae Chaem, a winding river that flows from the slopes of Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest mountain, which is clearly visible from the town. The town rests on the river’s banks.
	Despite the wealth of activities, for many people it is the valley’s tranquillity that will appeal most. In a sense, the “nothing is happening” is part of the town’s charm. Try these scents: air freighted with the breath of jasmine, the heady scent of just-cut rice, drying sheds for onion and garlic, the smoke of straw fires in the evening. Add to it the friendliness of the townspeople, also evident in the water jars (nam jai) at temples and in front of many houses for thirsty passers-by to imbibe. One breathes deeply the valley’s bucolic atmosphere and is refreshed.
	What Poking Around Reveals Besides scenery it offers seven beautiful temples, a bustling morning market, some unique ancient crafts, a quiet paddle down the Mae Chaem River, nearby waterfalls, a relaxing soak in a hot spring and a village massage.

	Mae Chaem is, first and foremost, about rice — thick stands of it. And vegetables. Visiting around the planting or harvesting season is to see the townspeople at their best, chatting and laughing as they go about the timeless tasks associated with cultivation. They are farmers and proud of it, farm folk with no desire or need to impress anyone. No fancy clothes, no spiffing up for outsiders. This, for many travellers, is its beauty.
	That is evident in its midtown morning market. It begins early, at 3.00 am, and by 6.00 am everyone has packed up and gone home. In it, one gains an appreciation of the vast array of produce the valley grows. It also teems with Karen tribespeople who form a large portion of the valley’s population.
	In the post-rice season, the villagers pursue several crafts for which they have become renowned. At Ban Fai Thong, just southwest of the town, weavers produce distinctive teenjok, the finely-detailed decorative fabric that hems the bottom of the paa sin (sarongs) that the women wear. The diamond shapes in predominantly reds and yellows are unique to Mae Chaem.
	In nearby Ban Thap, near Wat Ban Thap, craftsmen produce Pin Thong Luang, the brass hairpins with which women fix their hair into buns on festive occasions.
	To the northwest near Wat Kong Kan, villagers in Soon Duan Ru Hom Kram Fai Phrak Mai grow the leaves they use to dye thread indigo to produce the moh hom shirts worn by farmers and fashionable outsiders.

The valley’s culture has been long in the brewing. The town sits on an ancient trade route between Chiang Mai and Myanmar (Burma). Elephants, horses and bullocks once carried salt and miang (fermented tea) to Burma, and iron tools like knives, jop (hodags) and ploughs, as well as clothing and household utensils back. As a result, many Burmese cultural influences can be seen in the galae (crossed boards on the gables), recipes, Burmese-style temples and images, and heard in the songs the villagers sing.

The Seven Beauties
It is in seven temples that one finds Mae Chaem artistry at its best. Very often, Thai traditional architecture doesn’t stand up to close scrutiny. From a distance, it impresses because it is golden and glittery, but up close, it is less than stellar art. Mae Chaem’s temples and monuments do pass close inspection, testament to a pride of execution among the artisans who created them. Moreover, the setting is often as brilliant as the gem. Thus, one finds beautiful temples on the shores of seas of rice, or beneath the spreading boughs of tall trees. The courtyards are often a charming jumble of buildings with everything on a small, human scale, not grand, soaring edifices.

Three of the temples lie north of Wat Ban Thap, also on the west side of the river. Wat Phrao Noom is the most modern of the group. Its walls are covered in richly-detailed carvings of Buddhist figures. In contrast to the black lac with gold found in many temples, these are rendered in gold leaf on a chocolate brown background.

A small museum at Wat Bupparam just up the street displays interesting farm implements, opium tools and old guns. Among the oddities is a collection of canteens left behind by Japanese soldiers who briefly occupied Mae Chaem during World War II.

Nature Ventures
Mae Chaem is also about enjoying natural beauty to the fullest. Boating along the river is one option. Bamboo rafting is offered all year round, as are rowboats or triyaks in the company of a local guide. The craft take one into a countryside characterized by villages, tall elephant grass, clean water and an almost complete absence of garbage. The lack of development is evident in that one arrives in the town with virtually no structural prelude to the buildings to come: nature extends right to its doorstep. Boating and cycling opportunities are also available at Suan Pa Mae Chaem.

	Appropriately enough, some 36 kilometres down Route 1088 to Hot are the Nam Phu Lon Thepparom hot springs. It costs 200 baht for the privilege of breathing the sulphuric aromas wafting up from the springs. Most enticing is the modern spa where 50 baht buys 20 minutes of relaxing hot spring bathing in one of ten small enclosures. Be warned that silver jewellery worn into the bath will tarnish. Gold is okay, however, and it is all very relaxing. A few kilometres on is the impressive Ob Luang Gorge, Thailand’s Grand Canyon.
	Falls and More Falls Along Route 1192 to Doi Inthanon National Park, through which one must pass going to and from Chiang Mai, are four waterfalls. The first two are nearly 17 kilometres from Mae Chaem. Two kilometres down the hill on the right is Huai Sai Leuang, a lovely two-tiered set of falls where camping sites and bungalows are available. Straight on is Mae Pan Falls, a 500-metre walk down a steep trail. Farther down the Doi Inthanon Road along the Chiang Mai-Mae Chaem route is the more spectacular Wachirathan Falls. Mae Ya Falls is on the right, four kilometres before Route 108.

Accommodations
Navasoung Resort, on the edge of the valley and off Route 1192 from Doi Inthanon, is a group of bungalows with its own restaurant. This is an ideal base camp for exploratory trips.

The Mae Chaem Hotel in the middle of town offers both traditional hotel accommodation and bungalows.

At Mae Khampaw’s homestay (+66 (0) 810 244828) just up the road from V postcard, a room is 100 baht per night. This is in a quiet village setting surrounded by nice people who are representative of the valley’s population, but there are no restaurant facilities. Ask Mae Kampraw to make a refreshing Nam Dok Anchan drink from the blue gentian flowers growing on her front fence. The deep blue liquid magically turns a bright purple when lime juice is squeezed into it.

Ask here or at Navasoung about a very relaxing “jap sen” nuat pan boran traditional massage for one hour (100 baht).

Restaurants
The best restaurants are located on the Inthanon Road halfway between the roundabout and the intersection of the Hot-Inthanon roads south of the town. There is also an excellent kuay teow (noodle) shop on the main road opposite Mae Chaem Hotel and its branch in town on Route 1192 opposite the PTT gas station.

Transportation
It is probably best to hire a van and driver in Chiang Mai, and to arrange for your pick-up at the end of your stay. You can rent 150-cc Honda motorbikes at Pongwadee in front of the Mae Chaem Hotel on the main street for 250 baht a day.

	Bamboo rafting: Year-round, any time of day. Call Khun Ot at +66 (0) 81 0239358. You need to find your own way to Mae Na Jon, 26 kilometres north of Mae Chaem, and the two-hour journey costs 400 baht for a four-person raft.
	Rowboat or Triyak: Call Nui at +66 (0) 81 8828521 to arrange a 90-minute paddle for 600 baht for two people sharing a kayak, or 400 for one.